Having a Bite at the General Store

The Reemergence of the General Store in New England

By CivJet

I have this memory from about thirty years ago of going down the hill with my friend’s grandfather to pick up some milk at the Cummington store. I remember we wanted to go so we could get a Marathonbar. As usual the place was lit by bare bulbs and a bunch of men sat around a small wood stove in coveralls.

Thirty years later that same store has changed. The front door welcomes you with a community board with listings of events. Now the light inside is warm and there are rows of organic food and wine as well as a counter with some of the best sandwiches ever. More important than the food is the sense of community that the shop has created.  

Stopping in is more than just a bite to eat, there is the inevitable conversation with someone you’ve just met or tale retold many times. The seating area includes a kid’s area full of toys and drawing supplies which means a family breakfast becomes a leisurely event.

This change isn’t unique to The Olde Creamery.  Eight miles away in Ashfield Massachusetts, Elmer’s Store, which opened originally in 1835 under the name Craft’s, has brought another town together.  It’s been Elmer’s since 1937 and I can remember visiting it as a child. They always kept a large wheel of cheddar under glass in the window.  It was the most crumbly and sharp treat, and though the owner’s have changed, going there is no less enjoyable as an adult.

When Nan Parati bought Elmer’s Store she wanted to make it something that the community wanted.  So she put together a survey and handed it to her neighbors.  What she found out was that the people of Ashfield wanted a place to stop by for coffee and some breakfast, somewhere that could be a community hub for the town of 1,800.  Parati has lived up to her promise as Elmer’s offers more than just food, they have a small bulk section and another corner of the store is full of local artisan’s work.

What the town got wasn’t just a greasy spoon, Elmer’s is some of the best breakfast food I’ve had anywhere, and since you’re in New Englandeverything is served with real maple syrup. They have been written up in the Boston Globe as a destination. Now they serve breakfast everyday of the week, lunch on the weekends and dinner Friday nights. If you head there on a long weekend there might be a line but there is great people watching.

Up in Shelburne Falls, on the Buckland side of theBridge of Flowers is McCusker’s Market. The front of the store is filled with beautiful produce and a large selection of organic products.  Walk through the isles and you will come to the counter where you can find a whole array of food to order, both sandwiches and ice cream, which you’ll need after a day of swimming at the Pot Holes.

Relatively speaking McCusker’s is young.  Power’s market in North Bennington Vermont just celebrated their 175 birthday.  Power’s Market is a small low-key market on the main square (triangle) in North Bennington, and they have a little bit of everything including fresh locally made mozzarella, deadly raspberry shortcake and a nice selection of sandwiches, but the Portuguese Breakfast Sandwich is my favorite. 

With the trend towards healthy local eating small general stores have really began to reemerge as lively and interesting spots, each one imbued by the locals with its own personality. So if you are heading to Western New England it’s worth your time to hunt out one of these general stores to really get a feel for the communities that you are stopping in.  I’ve heard of a few people who have even moved up here just because of a cup of hot chocolate (did I mention the hot chocolate at Elmer’s).

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